Thursday 26 June 2014

Chronological Walls of the Luz Church of Madras



It was rather a cloudy day when we visited the site of Chennai
and while roaming around the streets of Santhme we discover the Portuguese inheritance. Although the trail of heritage was hosted by journalist Anusha Parthasarthy and Vincent D’Souza, who took an initiative to get us back on the walls of the 16th century area and while enjoying the course we learnt that the coast of the area was once a hub of Portuguese settlement.

While making our way we visited the site of St. Thomas who is believed to be one of the 12 apostles of the Jesus Christ and as per the folklore it is believed that he was the man who brought Christianity to India.

During our journey we came across various churched which were established by the Portuguese and I noticed some familiar aspects among each other but rest were really a different and contrasting. Doubting an aura of St. Thomas to be limited here but then I noticed every other church was associated with his life or with his tomb.

While I appreciated every mark of Chennai but my eyes got stuck once I saw the splendour of the Luz Church Road which is placed rightly around the streets of Mylapore. The 16th century church is named after the one who structured it. although I had walked through the streets many times with my friend and probably had witnessed the church but it was for the first time it dawned over me and at that moment I learnt that it was the oldest churches of Chennai.
Standing somewhere down the beautiful steps I fairly examined the site of the church and recalled the memory when the site was renowned as Kattu Kovil and recognised its beauty which was once surrounded by the forest and the magical background of the sea. 

Even today if you will walk here you will feel the elegance that depicts the same essence of the side. Seeing the site one might imagine that it is located very far away from the mounding crowd but if you walk here you will understand that the site is perfectly located within the reach of the city.

As per the legends it was in 16th century when the eight Franciscan friars sailed from Lisbon to India and while cruising the way they paused at Calicut and Cochin and after that they navigated further south. While making their way they had to face the might of the sea but they were fortunate enough to be guided by the bright light which paved the way towards the coastal line of Mylapore where they witness the remnants of the St. Thomas house.


Following the course of the light they walked through the dense forest where everything disappeared and following the incidence friars established the oratory on the spot. The church is referred as Kaatu Koli or the temple but it is rather believed that the site which is relived by the glory of Church of Lady of Light.

The church is dated 1516 and an inscription says, ‘Friar Pedro of the Observance of St Francis built this church of Our Lady of Light in 1516.' However, there could be controversy when it comes to the date as recommended by the historians.

The traveller must understand that the church was put into mode of destruction several times but owing to its importance the site was renovated many times. When it comes to architectural beauty than the distinct European style, Gothic and Baroque styles with frescos on the ceilings speaks the volume.

Traveller must understand that Portuguese was amongst the earliest colonial powers that walked into the shore of madras and as per the history Santhome is possibly the first settlement of the European even before the incursion of the Dutch, the French and the Britishers.

Probably when it comes to the Madras connection with Portuguese than many of the monuments and their architectural work defines their rule here and even the name of Madras shares the healthy relation with Portuguese family who lived here during the call of the 17th century and referred the class of the city as Manuel Madra.   

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