Monday 23 September 2013

Take a Trip to a Pleasant Dhun-Heta Bungalow in Panchgani

Travel books advise you to visit Panchgani for a view of Asia’s second longest plateau. We say to visit the place to live in a home that influences stories dating back to 1914.

Exploring Dhun-Heta (pronounced dh-a-n) was a matter of luck. I wanted to visit Panchgani after I watched a television series in which actor Liliput played a scary clown, which was filmed as I believe at this hill station. The other part that I wanted to do was to stay in a heritage house ever since I started researching them.

With breakfast, tea, coffee, including a fruit basket, Rs 1,000 per person per night, the bungalow located on Tableland Road was mine for three days. It was an opportunity that I didn’t want to miss.

I took the early bus from Mumbai to Panchgani, and after about 6 hrs later, I was standing in front of a gate, half a km outside the town perimeter. It is a 5 minute uphill walk from the market to Dhun-Heta. I called for Mr Dube, the guard, who approached waving at me.



Even though I had seen photos of the home on owner Heta Pandit’s website (www.stayindia.com), I was not ready for the pure happiness of vacation I had bought for myself. The pathway leading towards the home extended till about 200 m, bordered by tall trees and grass, freshly transformed by the rains. Though Dhun-Heta is the only one that is heritage, painted in two principal colours, the property includes a total of three houses. Although it has been receiving visitors for 10 yrs, potted plants and a black and white cat gave the house a homely look.

The bungalow, built in 1914 by an Englidhman named Henry Couldrey, is of classic colonial style. The Nawab of Wai, Abbas Ali, bought it over and later on sold it to person from Pune. Heta’s mother Manijeh Patell bought it on April 20, 1942, from the owner of that time, and renamed the bungalow after her children.

The bungalow features a four bedroom structure, a dining hall and a large living room. It also has a windowed veranda and sofas that are relaxing. All I wanted was drop into one of the sofas with a book along with a cup of tea. That was what I did for the entire first day.

The entrance to the bungalow that I used was not the main one. The original entrance was at the veranda, which had 16 steps leading to the door. Pandit informed me that the entry was switched because the visitors’ complain regarding knee pain.

The kitchen is operated by Sharadji. He is the one to be summoned if you like to have some breakfast.

The house still holds its original clay tiles, hexagonal in shape and perhaps the cheapest available option then. There is a refrigerator from 1942 in the storeroom, which used to operate on kerosene. Old photographs of the family are placed on a complex table. I asked Heta if it bothered her while sharing the bungalow with strangers. To this, she replied that only single-minded people approach her. She added, “Also, I believe the house needs to earn for its maintenance.” As maintenance of homes like these require a lot of money.

I came to the knowledge that the property attracts wildlife, as Dubeji walked around, using a stick to charge off snakes. Also, one morning, a monkey greeted me, while swinging between trees. Soon, there were three more, followed by two more. Though, mostly I was accompanied by a nightingale that added background music to my beautiful vacation.

Nobody wants a holiday to come to an end. Still I had to leave with a joyful thought that Panchgani is only a few hrs away.

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